This dramatic collection echoed the setting- a darkened theatre holding a watery like catwalk, upon which models floated down draped in jacquard and rustic appliqué dresses. The overall feel was haunting, dark, eery, the clothes less conventionally 'pretty' than his previous outings. Black collars and high, frilly necklines provided a victorian edge while plunging or off the shoulder necklines injected a contemporary yet fashionably vintage feel.

PETER PILOTTO 

Peter Pilotto has been a favourite of mine for years now, and i always wait for their new collections to hit the catwalk in excited anticipation. Set in a car park, fabrication took the limelight with calf length dresses, shirts,  asymmetric skirts and tops made in the most luxurious of materials ranging from chantilly lace and satin to smocked cotton knits. The palette was fresh and bright; sky blues, pastel lemons and crisp whites contrasted with the bold, almost sporty feel provided by thick straps, elasticated sleeves and primary coloured zips. The traditionally feminine elements of the collection-the dresses, the shapes, the patterns- are balanced out with just the right about of structure and edge, something that makes this brand so distinctive. 

BURBERRY 

Remember the hype surrounding the personalised ponchos debuted on the Burberry catwalk a couple of seasons ago?  Pretty much the moment they were first seen on the runway, bloggers, models, celebrities and the like were tripping over themselves to either sign up to the waiting list to receive the real thing, or bag themselves a lookalike from high street retailers. Well, this season its the personalised nylon backpack. Model after model breezed down the runway with a backpack hanging off their shoulders in various shades of black, navy and khaki, each one held together with a tan leather buckle, and adorned with the models initials and, of course, the much fawned-over Burberry logo. The desired feel of this collection was young, carefree, and the clothes definitely portrayed that spirit. There was slippery silk slip dresses held up by barely-there spaghetti straps, a look that could take you easily from summer to winter with the help of a jumper or coat thrown over the top. And if it's coats you're after, you would definitely find one here. There was coats of every variety; lace trenches with a sporty mesh, black pea coats, duffle coats, officer jackets with regimental buttons as well as a tough leather biker jacket thrown over a simple yet beautiful black mini dress. After watching last seasons show i thought it would be hard to beat, but Christopher Bailey has outdone himself yet again. 

Bryony x 

Jonathon Saunders is well known in the fashion world for his expressive use of colours, and this particular show was inspired by a makeup palette with bright, bold colours parred down with nude and blush tones. Saunders cited our multi culture as inspiration for his oriental flavoured kimono jackets, pyjama trousers, fringed jackets and wrap dresses; Indian, African, and Chinese cultures all influenced the show. I love this collection, the whole thing has an essence of ease to it and it all looks beautifully crafted.

TOPSHOP UNIQUE

Ever the picture of femininity and glamour, this season's Temperly London show was packed with delicate summer dresses and pretty embroided skirts, tops and shorts. There was crisp white cotton shirts with appliqué tropical flowers and palm leaves, all topped off with Havana-like Panama hats. The tailoring was easy and slightly masculine, with relaxed linen culottes and pretty waistcoats worn over bare arms. This collection felt light and breezy, and i loved every single piece in it. 

MARY KATRATNZOU

For me this is one of MK's most wearable collections. The designer wanted the collection to be 'enchanting and beautiful' it absolutely was. The show opened with a smattering of sparkly dresses, adorned all over with sequins, beads, and shimmery tones, all in a variety of signature 3D prints, an art that Katrantzou has down to a T. Dresses in jewel tones followed, the cuts sharp and light, with peplum shape finishes and bloom-like shapes. There's not a single piece from this collection that i don't like, every single thing is individually beautiful. 

PAUL SMITH 

Paul Smith has been one of my favourite designers since i first did a project on him in my first year of college. He always manages to bring a contemporary, modern edge to his collection whilst still maintaining that quintessential britishness that he does so brilliantly. His style doesn't adhere to what we perceive as being ' in fashion'-he introduces the trends with a authenticity that can't be beaten in my opinion. This collection was very cool and very chic, with panelled colour block dresses clashing with animal prints, dip died coats, and silky cigarette trousers. The signature stripe made an appearance, but this time ran lazily over loose fitting dresses in summery pastel shades. No, Paul Smith doesn't exactly break any rules with his collections, but he makes clothes that real girls like you and me would want to wear, and for me, that kind of simplicity is beautiful.

Bryony x 

Mother of Pearl was one of the designers featured on my London Fashion week blog post from last season, and this seasons collection is even more impressive. Creative director Amy Powney is known for taking inspiration from powerful women, last season her muses were Winona Ryder and Claire Danes, and this show cites the looks of Laura Ingalls Wilder and Scarlett O'Hara as sources of inspiration. Live music played as the models floated down the runway in a Victorian whirl of ruffles, frills and pie crust collars. The white rubber- looking boots added a sports luxe feel and a contempory edge, which stopped the whole thing from looking too dress up. I absolutely love this collection, there's definitely a few pieces in there that i definitely wouldn't say no to wearing. 

JULIEN MACDONALD

MacDonald bought a somewhat incongruous edge to his catwalk on Saturday, with an army of models clad head to toe in dramatically ornate designs. Gone was the normal sparkly princess look that the designer is so famous for, and standing in it's place was a tough warrior women, with embellished spider knits and razor sharp cuts. I personally love this mix up of styles, and i love how Julien has managed to create a completely different aesthetic for his brand while still keeping the essence of his signature style. The hair and makeup- wet hair and eyes heavily kholed- added a kind of 50 shades feel which gave the whole show a sexy vibe. I always think that Macdonalds creations wouldn't look out of place in a museum, each design is as beautifully ornate as the last, and the attention to detail and pure passion that goes into every stitch can't be taken for granted. 

HOLLY FULTON

The main thing that stood out for me during the Holly Fulton show was the silhouettes. Flattering and feminine, there was asymmetrical hemlines with frills tumbling over them in a nod to the 50's era. Denim was a big hit, with the addition of embroidery which created a youthfulness. Every single piece for me is entirely wearable which is something that is often hard to find during fashion week. 

HOUSE OF HOLLAND 

For me, the models at House of Holland at this seasons show hovered somewhere between Hunger Games tributes and Jungle Explorers. The overall feeling was fun, which is what Henry Holland is known for, but that doesn't mean to say the quality wasn't absolutely luxe. Suedes, leathers and furs took centre stage and colours like navys and dark olive greens were bought to life along side pops of pink, coral and turquiose. I have to say this is one of my favourite Holland collections to date.

GARETH PUGH

For me this was Gareth Pugh's most wearable collection. The models that are normally clad in nightmare-ish creations (which, beautiful that they are, aren't quite the sort of thing you could actually wear) instead pranced down a glitter penny filled runway in London's soho, sporting disco inspired get ups, with sequin shorts, disco flares and candy stripes reminiscent of Britains pleasure piers. Obviously i can't go without mentioning the doll like faces painted on over masks and mad wig hair. Well, it's still Gareth Pugh after all. 

So thats my favourites from day one all wrapped up! Do you guys have any favourites? 

Bryony x